18 Things New Owners Need To Know
By Jo Ann McGrath

1. Don't buy babies younger than 4 or 5 months Unweaned crias (baby
llamas) are not suitable pets. If you have inadvertently obtained
one, bottle-fed it 20 percent of its weight daily with plain
homogenized Vitamin D milk (reinforced with nutrients if it doesn't
gain daily) and don't cuddle it. Offer it coarse sweet feed and free
choice quality hay at an early age. It will start to nibble when it is
ready. Naturally raised crias, not normally weaned until six months,
should gain a half to a full pound daily. Provide it with another
animal for company - preferably a llama - but keep physical human
contact to a minimum. An adult llama bonded to a human from nearbirth
without proper herd socialization can be a danger when the
animal treats the human as another llama. Seek information from
knowledgeable reputable breeders or veterinarians. A reputable
breeder will not sell you a cria under four or five months of age.

2. Llamas left haltered are in peril
Because many owners don't train their animals to haltering, or
provide a catch pen or stall for doing so, they leave the halters on
all the time. This results in abscesses, ulcers, unsightly
calluses....and, if the halter is caught on something, a broken neck.
And because haltering has not been mastered, some owners leave the
SAME halter on a growing animal. Some have been found with the
flesh growing around the nose band or with malformation of the
nasal passages.

3. Llamas should not be tied to trees or posts
Don't leave your llama tied to any ungiving object. Some have tried
to accustom their animals to a halter by leaving them tied to a tree.
The too-often result has been a broken neck when they have tossed
their heads to break free. Use a bungee or other elastic extension,
firmly secured, if you must tie an untended llama.

4. Deworming and vaccination.
Llamas need to be on a regular schedule of deworming. Panacur or
Safeguard paste and Ivermectin subcutaneous shots or pour-on
liquid have been the recommended dewormers. Ivermectin will not
take care of tapeworms - use Panacur or Safeguard paste. Yearly
vaccinations (CDT and killed rabies vaccine) are standard. Babies
are vaccinated before weaning at five to six months. Young animals
are more susceptible to coccidia infestations than older ones;
diarrhea is a symptom. Coccidiosis presents a danger of
dehydration as well as debilitation that can lead to death. Treat
with Corrid.

5. Llamas frequently choke on concentrated pellets.
Not every one of them will choke, but if you feed straight pellets to
your llamas, ultimately you are likely to have a case of choke -
particularly when animals are in competition for food. A coarse
feed, even mixed with pellets, is preferable. In an emergency, acute
episodes of choke may be resolved by passing a tube into the side of
the mouth and gently feeding the length of it down the throat to
clear obstruction. Examination by vet should follow any emergency
treatment and an antibiotic administered to ward off pneumonia in
the event partially masticated pellets are sucked into the lungs.
Some have successfully massaged the "lump" or used the Heimlich
maneuver. However, if the airways are totally closed, time is short.
Check with your vet and have a first aid plan as a contingency.
Numbers of llamas have died from asphyxiation from spectacular
clogging of their airways by saliva-swollen pellets.

6. If you do feed pellets
To discourage choke, spread pellets in a wide pan or put large
smooth rocks in their bowl so they must "lip" around them. This
will keep them from gobbling too fast. Non-breeding llamas fare
very well on free choice hay, adequate pasture, fresh water and free
choice loose minerals. If they are breeding, underweight or
lactating, supplement them with a feed formulated for llamas. Goat
or cow formulated feed can be used - even horse feed has been used.
They CANNOT be fed rabbit pellets even though the pellets may
look like other pelleted feeds.

7. They need a source of minerals/salt
Whether or not you feed grain or pellets, do be sure they have free
access to a source of salt and minerals--including extra selenium if
you are in a selenium-deficient area. Check with your Extension
Agent to learn the selenium level in your state or county. Your
agent can take a core sample of your hay to assess its nutritional
content.

8. Heat and Humidity
Llamas, accustomed to the dry thin air of the South American
altiplano, do not handle heat and humidity well. They need to be
sheared in the spring and cooled by hosing their bellies and under
their tails when the heat is oppressive. They must have shelter from
direct sun and some kind of air movement if their shelter enclosed.

9. Open-mouthed breathing can be dire
In the heat of summer, never ignore an animal that is breathing with
an open mouth. While they will do this if they were recently spat
upon, it is an extremely abnormal way to breathe. Conclude that
they are in heat stress and cool them IMMEDIATELY and
thoroughly. Males in heat stress will have swollen testicles. A
normal adult temperature is 100 to 101 degrees....sometimes 102
can be normal for your animal. 103 and higher is trouble. Llamas
should be sheared in the spring. (See Llama Life No. 38 for
detailed heat stress information.)

10. Poison plants and trees
Llamas are browsers - they like to eat a variety of things. A number
of those things can be lethal: Rhododendron and wilted cherry are
among the most well-known examples of vegetation that have proved
lethal. There is a list available of toxic plants and trees - check
with any one of the associations devoted to camelids, or your
Extension Agent - who is a good resource and whose services are
paid for with your taxes....use him!

11. Llamas don't like to be alone
Even responsible purchasers, who have listened to responsible
owners and bought a pair of llamas, can run into trouble. As long
as the two are together....they are content. If you choose to take
one of them for a walk, expect the one remaining to become
extremely agitated. So agitated that he may jump the fence or do
damage to himself in an attempt to join you. Even in herd situations,
llamas show concern when one is separated from the group.

12. Shelter - Fencing
Many llamas live without any shelter but trees. It can be done, but
it isn't an ideal situation. Some protection from wind, snow, rain,
sun and lightning should be afforded them. Fencing for any kind of
livestock of similar size should be adequate. Barbed wire is a poor
choice since they rub against fences and poke their heads through
the wires and the barbs can easily injure their prominent eyes, or
rip into their skin.

13. Males close to 1 year should not reside with females
And young females should not reside with males--young or old.
Since most are sexually precocious and fertile, it is not uncommon
for pregnancies to occur in females at four months. By six months, a
young male is sufficiently practiced that he can encourage adult
females to ovulate--and some may even be capable of penetrating a
female. If you have a brother and sister together, don't rely on
them to understand the taboos of incest. When animals are in
unnatural confinement nature doesn't require them to recognize the
finer distinctions of family trees. In the wild, some natural
mechanisms mitigate against this.

14. Trim males' fighting teeth
By the age of at least two, impressive, curved and very sharp upper
and lower fighting teeth will have matured to a point where serious
damage can be done to other males--and to an uncooperative female.
And, if you leave breeding males together, expect injury or heat
stress. Even in 100 degree weather a male will chase a rival till he
drops. One enraged male can render another emasculated with his
front teeth. A full set of fighting teeth aren't necessary to inflict
great and lasting damage. Consult veterinarian about removing tips
of fighting teeth.

15. You need a chute or some safe restraint
Trying to cut toenails, (and, yes, toenails need to be cut or lameness
will result--although some animals rarely or never need trimming)
or administer shots, or handle an injured animal can be dangerous
for the animal and you unless you have a reliable, SAFE restraint.
Some have used a horse trailer in place of a chute

16. Prolonged labor is not natural
Once hard labor has begun (active pushing), a nose or a foot
should appear within an hour (preferably sooner). Don't let an
animal struggle for hours without producing anything. If, prior to
actively pushing, she lies down on one side and then the other
frequently, - or up and down constantly - or if she is flat out with
her head on the side, call your vet. If you don't have a vet you can
call, learn what is, and how to resolve, a dystocia (difficult birth)
before you have to.

17. Keep colostrum and plasma on hand
Some new mom's won't have milk or it will be slow to come in. Some
new crias are weak. Colostrum (first milk) needs to be in a baby's
belly within 12 hours after birth to help insure a passive transfer
of antibodies, and to give the baby strength. Don't wait until you
have a problem. Have at least a quart, preferably a gallon, (frozen
in six- or eight-ounce freezer baggies or containers) of goat or cow
colostrum (from animals that have been vaccinated) on hand - along
with a nipple that works (recommended is a flutter valve available
from Caprine Supply - 1-800-646-7736) and a soda bottle that
fits the nipple. There is nothing sadder than an owner calling
around to distant llama neighbors at midnight in search of lifesaving
colostrum. Keep two units of plasma in your freezer along
with the colostrum. Deep frozen, it will last a long time.

18. Don't keep 'stuff' in their pens

Llamas are curious. They explore everything. Don't leave potentially
dangerous lumber, wire, wheelbarrows, baling string, tractor
parts or brooms and shovels where they can reach them, get
tangled in them, or chew on them.